The Guildhall, High Street, Worcester

10:50am Friday 4th July 2008

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THERE can’t be many cafes in Worcester to have been caught up in such a heated debate as this one. With cash-strapped Worcester City Council pondering how it can best wring every last penny out of a building which remains one of its finest assets, the future of the city’s 15th-century Guildhall remains somewhat unclear.

Proposals to bring in a well-known branded coffee house such as Starbucks have caused furious debate about whether such a commercial use is appropriate for this historic civic focal point.

In fact, as we walk slowly up the Guildhall’s grand staircase one Saturday lunchtime, we wonder if people have actually forgotten that there’s already a café-cum-restaurant.

First impressions, of course, are all about the breathtaking setting – the Guildhall’s magnificent assembly room, with its vast shimmering chandeliers and rows of towering portraits celebrating the great and the not-so-good who have presided over this city.

If you’ve never been, it’s worth the trip simply to enjoy spending some time in this great hall.

Taking up a table beside the solemn-looking Sixth Earl of Coventry, we start with a simple bowl of tomato and basil soup before agreeing that the most inviting main course appears to be the hearty-looking joints of meat glistening in the carvery. The choice is pork or beef, but both look so inviting that when we’re offered cuts of both we readily agree.

The portions are hugely generous and the pork in particular is excellent; extra-crunchy crackling, apple sauce and all. The vegetables are help yourself and absolutely fine – if slightly overdone – and our only real complaint is the size of the plates.

The sandwich-style crockery is clearly far too small to harbour such a huge roast dinner, making the actual process of eating the meal somewhat fraught with danger, and the risk of accidentally sending food hurtling across the floor is great.

The real treat comes when it’s time for pudding. This is clearly the café’s forte, with a fantastic selection of home-made cakes on offer, every single one undoubtedly as delicious as the fantastic cheesecake and gateaux my companion and I chose.

So if it’s a hearty, well-priced meal you’re after – two people, three courses, £30 – or just first-class coffee and cake in magnificent surroundings, you could certainly do a whole lot worse than this. Now beat that, Starbucks.

HOW IT RATED

The Guildhall, High Street, Worcester. Telephone: 01905 722033

Food *** Value for money **** Ambience **** Service ****