WHEN Browns restaurant was forced to close its doors following the devastating floods last summer there were a lot of disappointed diners.

However, less than 12 months on and a £350,000 refit later, the popular restuarant has re-opened and, I'm pleased to say, it is even better than before.

The general look of the restaurant remains similar to before - whitewashed brick walls of the former warehouse adorned with local works of art and crisp white linen on the tables - but the mezzanine level has been transformed and now offers a comfortable cocktail and champagne bar, which is just perfect for a pre or post-dinner drink.

My fellow diner and I were ushered here prior to our meal, where we enjoyed a delicious bowl of olives and bread sticks with a glass of wine to whet our appetites.

The two evening menus on offer are impressive. I opted for the table d'hote, offering three courses for £31.95 or four for £39.95, while my partner went the whole hog and chose from the a la carte menu.

Before our starters arrived, we were served a wonderfully light amuse-bouche of smoked trout and a selection of fabulous homemade breads. I chose king prawn and parma ham brochette with spiced aioli - a staple from the old menu that is back due to popular demand. It's plain to see why.

The meaty, sweet prawns with the salty ham were a divine combination, with the aioli packing a perfect garlic punch. My partner was unable to resist trying a mouthful and, despite his own impressive plate of south coast diver-caught scallops, free range pork belly, cauliflower puree and Browns' black pudding with a Herefordshire perry jus, he declared it was the best starter he had ever tasted. I had to agree, but it was a close call. The tender, moist scallops, while the priciest option on the menu at £10.95, were a seafood-love'rs dream.

Next, I had sea-reared rainbow trout, with lemon and wild garlic risotto, wilted gems and shellfish bisque, while my partner'' tastebuds were tempted by the loin of Tibberton rose veal with braised shin and sweetbreads, roast salsify, chanterelle and pearl barley risotto, and sage jus (£18.95). As expected, the fish dish was expertly executed - however, I would have preferred the skin to have been crispier. The lemon and wild garlic were well-balanced and the rich shellfish bisque lifted everything to a new level. It was the first time my partner had eaten either veal or sweetbreads, but it certainly won't be the last. He said the delicate, tender meat was cooked to perfection while the risotto had a satisfying bite.

Rather than opt for one of the inventive-looking desserts, we both opted for the French and English cheese board (£9.95).

From past visits, we know that Browns offers an unparalleled selection of cheeses meticulously reeled off to each diner by a well-informed waiter. However, things have changed slightly.

The selection, though still varied, has been reduced to a more manageable eight cheeses - four from each country - and we were presented with a menu, making it infinitely easier to make an informed choice. The cheese was served with an ample supply of biscuits, bread and grapes and we chose a full-bodied port from the impressive selection on offer.

To end our meal we enjoyed a coffee with mouthwateringly good petit fours - a meringue concoction which was as light as anything I've ever eaten, and an amazingly rich, dark chocolate and ginger truffle.

It's easy to see why Browns has just been awarded two AA rosettes for culinary excellence.

The experience really was faultless - from the warm reception we received on arrival, to the efficient service and of course the wonderful food. The bill came in at a hefty £125 for two (including two glasses of wine prior to eating and a bottle at the table) but for a special occasion, you won't leave disappointed.

HOW IT RATEDBrowns restaurant, 24 Quay Street, Worcester 01905 26263Food ***** Value for money **** Ambience ***** Service *****