Our party of four had all visited the Four Stones on several occasions, though not for a year or so, and we wondered if anything would have changed. But happily, the Clent restaurant knows there is no point in changing a winning formula, and the fact that the place was busy on a Thursday night goes to show that it remains as popular as ever.

The Four Stones manages to feel familiar even if you haven't visited for a while, with a cosy, informal atmosphere and the staff welcoming everyone like old friends. Diners are first shown to the conservatory area for drinks, complementary olives and a look at the menu, which includes the old favourites but offers so much variety that even regular customers would not have to repeat their choices.

As well as the fondly-remembered house specialities and the Four Stones Special fixed price menu (an astonishing £17.95 on weekdays), there is also the Chef's Choice - these dishes are cooked with ingredients chosen by dedicated chef Mario on his twice-weekly early-morning market visits and include plenty of fresh fish options such as Mussels Mariniere, Cornish dressed crab and char-grilled wild sea bass. Daily specials have even included giant lobsters, of which Mario - who has been at the Four Stones for 12 years - proudly showed us photographs.

It was a tough choice, but I finally decided to steer away from my usual Italian restaurant favourite of penne all'arrabiata (available as a starter or a main course, as are several other pasta dishes) and go for the half roast duck in orange and Grand Marnier sauce. Two companions also chose to combine house specialities and chef's choices, while the fourth member of the group opted for the Four Stones Special, which offered much more choice than many fixed price menus.

The main dining area is traditional in dcor, but while the Four Stones is clearly more formal than a trattoria-style restaurant, conversely it maintains an informal and intimate ambience, with the buzz of chatter accompanied by background music of well-known Italian songs.

The meal started well with the arrival of some tasty bruschetta and our choice of wine, a smooth Valpolicella, from the comprehensive list. For a starter I had picked the homemade venison and pork sausage, one of the Chef's Choice options, and this was particularly impressive, with the two char-grilled sausages packed with chunky meat. As Mario explained later, the juicy pork perfectly complemented the naturally drier venison.

One of my companions chose the Galia melon, which was served with tangy mixed berries and a refreshing homemade sorbet, while another went for chicken livers tossed with sliced mushrooms in Marsala wine and cream. Not being a liver fan I can't testify to the taste of that one, but I am assured that it was delicious. From the fixed price menu, the starter of choice was portobello mushroom filled with sausage and chestnut farce, and this had an almost Christmassy taste backed up by the accompanying cranberry coulis.

One of the nicest things about the Four Stones is that the meal never feels rushed, with just the right amount of time left between courses. Moving on to the main course, the duck was truly excellent; the golden, slightly crunchy skin giving way to the soft meat beneath, and coated in the deliciously sweet sauce that also sat well with the selection of roast potatoes and vegetables.

Having toyed with the idea of the Four Stones Special Pheasant Casserole I was happy that another member of the party had chosen it, as I was able to have a taste! We all agreed that this hearty dish would be high on the list for next time - the tender half pheasant with wine sauce and root vegetables, finished with one of the homemade sausages, was a real treat.

The other two had chosen pan-fried supreme of chicken in a mushroom, bacon, red wine and baby onion sauce, and salmon supreme in a grain mustard and wine sauce - as with the duck and pheasant, the quality of the sauces made these dishes outstanding while never overshadowing the original taste of the meat or fish.

The dessert menu includes classics such as tiramisu, cheesecake or profiteroles alongside fruit-based treats, and needless to say no-one was disappointed with their choice. The two who chose the amaretto and black cherry basket were able to choose an accompaniment of pistachio ice cream instead of vanilla, and since I had asked for no cream on my fresh mixed berry meringue nest, it appeared with extra fruit instead. Finally, the resident chocolate lover thoroughly enjoyed the spongy, light vanilla and hazelnut brownie, which came with a warm chocolate sauce and delicious ice cream.

Our visit fully confirmed the Four Stones' status as one of our favourite local restaurants - the combination of delicious food, excellent value for money and a friendly atmosphere is hard to beat.

As well as evening meals, the restaurant is open for lunch every day except Monday, offering a range of special menus including the Four Stones Special, Sunday lunch, and 'Lo Stuzzichino Per Due', a lunch for two people choosing from a list of five dishes and costing only £16 for both. You can also book the restaurant for a wedding, party or conference.

The Four Stones, Adams Hill. Clent

Tel: 01562 883260