Arriving at Knighton via the Heart of Wales railway line on a warm early-summer's day, I found the pre-arranged campsite below Pantpunton oak wood, on the English side of the meandering River Teme, which forms the border here.

Leaving Knighton via the impressive Offa's Dyke Centre (which also serves Glyndwr's Way), I made my way over Bailey Hill (400m) on the six-mile walk to Llangunllo with skylarks above, and long views of the gentle rolling hills of east Radnorshire.

But, as lunchtime neared, I felt hunger begin to grip and I eagerly ate my rolls washed down by a pint at the Greyhound pub in Llangunllo which has, since my walk, closed though I understand that there are hopes it may reopen.

I climbed towards Beacon Hill (547m) from Llangunllo. This was now hard going with a heavy backpack.

Long distance walking is rewarding but it is also a relentless challenge at times and, as the sun set towards the distant uplands of Pumlumon, I decided to heed my aches and pains, inquire at a farm and make camp for the night some miles short of my intended destination of Felindre.

Next morning was clear and sunny however and I was, quite literally, up with the lark to make good progress down past Cefn Pawl to Felindre.

The former postmistress at Felindre (shop now believed to be closed) is interested in local history and, among other things, she enlightened me on tai unnos in the area (this is a right, said to stem from the medieval Welsh Laws of Hywel Dda, for individuals to claim part of the community's land if a dwelling could be built within 24 hours; an axe thrown from the front door marked its boundary).

So I was now most definitely in Wales, I thought, but when I noted this Mrs Thomas said: "Well, yes, but the field you can see through that window is in England."

After benefiting from en-suite facilities at the New Inn, Llanbadarn Fynydd the next morning, I strode out refreshed and fortified, and onwards towards Cwmhir.

I was now also getting more used to the physical challenge, with my feet finally hardening up to the task. The natural world opened up before me with dippers flying low above the River Ithon (W. Afon Ieithon) and marsh marigolds framing its banks; wild raspberries and meadowsweet filled the hedgerows and I rose steadily above the mountain stile into the heather and bilberry and towards the summit of Moel Dod (467m).

Abaty Cwm-hir is a bit like Pilleth, steeped in Welsh history but, whereas Pilleth has an open landscape, Cwm-hir has an enclosed feel and is aptly named as it meanders from east to west within a narrow valley.

I was welcomed at Home Farm in the village and allowed to pitch my tent in the same field as the old Cistercian Abbey ruin, only yards away from where Llywelyn ap Gruffudd's headless body lies buried (following his death, in 1282, his head was taken to London, and paraded through the streets). He is known in Welsh as yr Olaf "the Last" (Welsh Prince of Wales), and a simple slate marks the spot.

As with many of the Radnorshire communities I passed through, Cwmhir has a close-knit, friendly and hospitable feel, as I discovered when the landlady of the Happy Union Inn offered to open the village shop so I could stock up with supplies.

This act of kindness happened twice in Radnorshire during my walk of the southern section of Glyndwr's Way. Mrs Jones then poured me a pint, and I spent the next hour writing my diary, and looking forward to the final leg of my journey: Cwm-hir to Machynlleth.

The next morning broke to mist and drizzle, and I decided that, because I was behind schedule, to walk along the country lanes to Llanidloes and, once arrived, I stayed another night in the homely comfort of a pub.

The next day was again wet and, after a trudge past Clywedog Reservoir, I reached Dylife, an old lead-mining village (once a thriving community of 1,500 people); the Star Inn is one of the few surviving buildings and the owners allowed me to camp in their grounds. The weather was finally lifting, with the promise of a fine day ahead to cross the highest point on Glyndwr's Way.

Early next morning, on the steep descent from the hills above Dylife, I was amply rewarded after the rain with some breathtaking views, not only of mid-Wales and Cardigan Bay in the west, but also of the more dramatic peaks of Snowdonia to the north - most notably Cadair Idris 892m (2,928ft).

They say the best views in Wales are had from here and I think I agree. Pumlumon Fawr 752m (2,468ft) and its gritstone ridge forms the highest of a number of rounded peaks that rise here above the hills and valleys of mid-Wales.

From the nearby Montgomeryshire Wildlife Trust nature reserve at Llyn Glaslyn (www.montwt.co.uk /glaslyn.html) and Foel Fadian I left Glyndwr's Way for a short detour to Carn Hyddgen, from where there is a panoramic vi ew of the area.

The sense of isolation here among the peat, heather and moor grass is quite something. It was partly because of its remoteness that Glyndwr established a base near here, from where he was able to travel Wales, moving quickly and elusively along the numerous and ancient upland tracks.

Glyndwr also established himself as a warrior leader here when, at a pivotal moment in the rebellion and greatly outnumbered, he defeated a Royalist army in the Battle of Hyddgen, 1401.

After rejoining the path, I began the long descent from the Pumlumon mountain range to Machynlleth, passing into the wooded valley of Dyffryn Dulas.

The lush beauty of this valley, and the later bustle of Machynlleth, was a complete contrast to the desolate wilderness feeling of the previous section of path.

I took advantage of the good choice of cafs on Maengwyn Street to eat like a king or maybe, in this case, like a wayward self-appointed prince.

Over a late lunch I reflected on my 70-mile trek - my first long-distance walk.

It felt like I had learned some basic lessons in physical endurance while I had also discovered a little bit more about Wales and its less well-trodden areas of natural beauty.

A leaflet on Glyndwr's Way National Trail is available from Helen Tatchell (Tel 01597 827562 or email gwnt@powys.gov.uk). More information can be obtained from the new Glyndwr's Way website: www.nationaltrail.co.uk/glyndwrsway and from the Offa's Dyke Centre, West Street, Knighton, Powys: tel. 01547 528 753 (oda@offasdyke.co.uk web site: www.offasdyke.demon.co.uk/odc).