In recent years, this Italian resort has seemed more like Blackpool than the legendary playground of the rich and famous, but Rebecca Burgess finds the good times are back

In the 1970s, Rimini on Italy's Adriatic coast was considered the seaside destination for rather grand European holidaymakers. Royalty and nobility came to 'take the waters' at the five-star Grand Hotel and peruse the exclusive shops in neighbouring Riccione.

But when the package holiday was born, the resort's popularity with the elite declined. So in a bid to win back business, Rimini became more cheap and cheerful. A host of hotels sprang up on the seafront, filling every inch of the beach with huts, cafs and children's playgrounds. Soon the nightclubs were heaving and Rimini became as loud as some of the brashest corners of Ibiza.

But change is afoot in this clubbing capital of Italy and a wave of designer hotels and spas are opening their doors to attract a wealthier 25 to 45-year-old clientele. This is backed by the tourist board, which is promoting the region's stunning countryside, medieval villages and alluring tax-free shopping in neighbouring San Marino.

I visited Rimini towards the end of the summer, when the Italian and European families had packed up their buckets and spades and headed home.

My last visit here was as a 20-something when living in Italy. I only seemed to see the city at night - arriving just in time to go clubbing and leaving at dawn to head home.

As a more mature visitor I was relieved to discover the entertainment on offer these days required a little less stamina on my part.

At weekends, there is no doubt that the best place to be is on the guest list for the party of more than 300 people held on The Grand's private beach on Sunday evenings.

The Grand's modern day parties certainly help recreate the air of the resort's luxurious bygone era. International DJs, a beachside bar and a guest list which everyone fights to get on add the touch of exclusivity Rimini is keen to rediscover. Luckily I was introduced to the man in charge of the guest list, Matteo Sormani, who is singlehandedly transforming the party scene. He's hoping to build on his success at The Grand in his new role as director of the noMI club in the new Ron Arad-designed Hotel duoMo.

Opened last December in Rimini's historic city centre, it is the first hotel located away from the seafront. And with a glass wall at street level it is destined to become the place for fashionistas to see and be seen.

Matteo describes it as a "laboratory" club with art and cultural events during the day and music and dancing at night.

It follows hot on the heels of Pascia, a nightclub which opened in neighbouring Riccione in 2005. With its members' only club, restaurant and chill-out terrace with day beds, it is a far cry from the clubs of Ibiza and Blackpool with which Rimini has been so unfavourably compared in the past.

And it's not only central Rimini which is being reborn. Only 20 minutes drive away is the newly-opened Riviera Golf Resort in San Giovanni -- a spectacular complex of modern design with baths the size of mini-swimming pools.

With a golf course, luxurious spa, modern white dining area and 80ft swimming pool, it's a perfect example of the luxury lifestyle Rimini now offers.

A few miles further on in Cattolica, the Carducci 76 hotel is another example of the emerging boutique-style hotels, complete with purple leather garden sofas, cactus plants on the beach and leopard skin bedrooms.

But there's much more to Rimini than beaches and boutique hotels, so it is well worth hiring a car to explore the picturesque countryside.

Class is returning to Rimini and its surrounding region.

Getting there

Rebecca Burgess was a guest of Rimini regional tourist board, and she flew Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) which offers a twice a day service from London Stansted to Bologna Forli airport, about 30 minutes' drive from Rimini.

Few major operators still offers packages to Rimini. Airtours is one that does. Reservations: 0870 608 1940 or visit www.airtours.co.uk

For packages including hotels mentioned by Rebecca Burgess, use a specialist independent travel agent like Real Holidays of North London on 020 7359 3938 or email info@realhols.co.uk