WITH the season to be merry upon us, it is time to get down to the serious business of choosing the wines that will make Christmas memorable or - for those who overindulge - less memorable.

But how many of us will be washing down our turkey, or toasting the Christmas pud, with a glass of organic red or bubbly?

Probably not as many as those who will be quaffing the non-organic stuff which lines the shelves of most supermarkets and wine merchants, But maybe a few more than last year and considerably more than 10 years ago.

Like the growth in demand for organic fruit, vegetables and other foodstuffs, organic wine and beer is becoming increasingly popular.

With this in mind, the Journal asked Mark Penfold, of organic wine suppliers Vintage Roots, to set up an organic wine tasting at Carl Murray and Maggie Taylor's popular new delicatessen, Murrays, in The Square, Blockley, to which a few regular customers were invited.

Blockley resident Suzi Watson thinks people are concerned about the chemicals contained in non-organic wines.

"It's the chemicals that give you the hangover. People are more conscious about what they put in their bodies," said Suzi.

However, she added: "Organic wine has to have the robustness of other wines. It has to stand on its own merits."

Her partner, Grahame Penny, an IT director for advertising firm Saatchi & Saatchi, certainly thought the white, a Sonop Sauvignon Blanc 2001, selected by Mark was "stunning".

"It's the first time I've had an organic wine I've liked. Usually they are wishy washy and watery but this is full of character and flavour.

"It's a good everyday drinking wine rather than a special occasion wine. It would sell bucketloads in London," said Grahame.

He was less convinced by the red, a Sonop Pintoge 2001, which he felt was not as robust as similar non-organic wines.

Mark suggested that the red would benefit from laying down for six months, though he felt it was "an easy drinking" wine.

Hazel Martindale, of Blockley, was impressed with the selected sparkling wine, an AOC Blanquette de Limoux Bernard Delmas, which she described as "fresh and effervescent".

"It's definitely not sweet and cloying," she said.

Peter and Gay Thompson, who run the Tudor House B&B in the village, thought the wines, especially the Sauvignon Blanc, were "very gluggable".

"One shies away from them because of the name organic. I was very impressed," said Peter.

Maggie and Carl, of Murrays, are certainly convinced that there is a market for organic wines.

"We had one of our regular Friday wine tastings and the response was very positive. People were a bit suspicious but the response has been reassuring," said Carl, who also stocks non-organic wines.

It would appear that while all organic wines, like all non-organic wines, are not going to be to everyone's taste, there is a place for them at some stage in the Christmas and New Year festivities.

"You have to be open-minded about organic wines. They are sold to a much more select market," said Mark Penfold.

Mark selected three wines - a red, a white and a sparkling wine - for the tasting, which he felt could be drunk on any occasion over the festive period.

They were:

l Sonop Pinotage 2001, priced £6.95 from Murrays

l Sonop Sauvignon Blanc 2001, priced £5.95 from Murrays

l AOC Blanquette de Limoux Bernard Delmas, priced £9.95 from Murrays

They are also available from a number of other stores, including Wyatts at Great Rollright and Chadlington Quality Foods; or direct from Vintage Roots on 07811 217043. Alternatively, visit the Vintage Roots website on www.vintageroots.co.uk