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3:06pm Monday 21st June 2010 in News
IN the 1940's, men were given the same rationing rules on clothes as women. This meant no fancy cuts or embellishments, and no waste of fabric. The men left behind at home also had to adopt a 'make-do and mend' attitude if they wanted to get by in the war years.
Those who did not go to war needed practical clothing, that they could work in but still look tidy. No man wanted to be caught in flashy fabrics for fear of being seen as unpatriotic. Since the vast majority of men were away fighting in the war, they required the best natural fabrics that could be provided to ensure that their uniforms were of the strongest material. This meant that those who were not at war had to make-do with what was left behind. They were forced to make new clothes out of old, and wear them until they couldn't possibly be worn again.
However, there was one particular garment that managed to find a place in men's fashion in the war years, and that was the 'Zoot Suit'. This suit was actually considered to be contraband because of its fancy appearance, in the same way that alcohol was, or drugs are today. The Zoot Suit was born in Harlem in the early 1930's and in the forties was mainly worn by African-American or Mexican-American men. The suit consisted of an oversized jacket with wide shoulders and lapels, as well as low-crotched baggy trousers which narrowed in at the ankle. This dramatically exaggerated suit had a lasting influence on men's fashion throughout the forties.
When a man got the chance to take his lady dancing, a few well placed accessories would liven up his otherwise austere appearance. Brightly coloured ties or the popular leather braces would do the trick, unless the man chose to wear uniform.
However, in 1947, fashion was changing again. Whilst women got the 'new look', men got a look all of their own. Men made the most of the end of rationing by enjoying long coats and full-cut trousers, signifying the new freedom and luxury. Hand-painted ties were also incredibly popular, with a range of colours and a wealth of designs becoming available, including limousines, exotic sunsets, and even pin-up girls.
But the most extreme change in men's fashion also arrived in 1947, with the casual shirt becoming almost more popular than the suit. The Hawaiian or Carisca shirts were first worn on the beaches of California and Florida, and were decked with pictures of exotic flowers, fruits or women in a range of bright colours. It was obvious that with such an extreme turn around in popular fashion that the low-spirits and confines of the war were transforming into a regained freedom that was welcomed back with open arms.
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