Elgars Coffee Shop and Restaurant, Worcester

9:07am Friday 1st February 2008

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WITHIN historic Reindeer Court is one of Worcester's most popular cafés. Away from the hectic High Street, Elgars Coffee Shop and Restaurant attracts a mix of diners and most of them, I expect, are regulars.

The café was packed when we arrived for Saturday lunch.

While we waited for a table well-dressed staff rushed in and out doors, up and down stairs, all the while assuring us that the first free table would be ours.

After a few minutes we were seated downstairs. Which was a shame because the upstairs area offers a much warmer, relaxed restaurant atmosphere, but it was not really a problem.

The extensive menu offered jacket potatoes, toasted sandwiches, open sandwiches and salads, all with simple yet satisfying fillings.

My first companion opted for stilton and broccoli soup (£4.40) to start. It was perfectly balanced - the stilton not overpowering and the accompanying granary bread, deliciously fresh and thick.

He followed that with a chicken and bacon Caesar salad (£8). The chicken was moist and salad fresh. The only let down was that some of the bacon was hard rather than crispy, and there could have been more of the Caesar sauce.

My second companion was more than pleased with her main course - salmon and prawn on a bed of salad (£8). Sitting on a good mixed salad was a large slice of well-cooked salmon and just the right amount of small prawns. The verdict was a very enjoyable, light lunch.

I chose the chicken and brie slice (£6.20).

This warm dish, again served with a fresh mixed salad, was proof that the simple dishes are the best. The chicken and melted brie, on top of toast, was smothered in a tangy cranberry sauce and the portion size was perfect.

We finished the meal with two enormous - but enjoyably light - homemade slices of cake, one chocolate (£2.70) and one carrot (£2.30).

This was straightforward, enjoyable fare without the pretence of being fancy, over-complicated or ground-breaking. No wonder the cafe, which opens one night each month for an exotic Turkish night complete with belly dancing, is fully booked on a Saturday lunchtime. Go once and you will definitely want to return.

With two house wines, one lemonade and three coffees the total bill came to £42.80.

Not the cheapest light lunch but it was certainly worth it.

ELGARS COFFEE SHOP AND RESTAURANT, 16 REINDEER COURT, WORCESTER Tel: 01905 726977SERVICE: ***** FOOD: ***** VALUE: **** AMBIENCE: ***