Slow Emotion

The concept of 'slow food' is growing fast in Herefordshire. Those behind the campaign to make the vast food-producing county a 'foodies' paradise are backing the cause with a disciple's fervour .

The title of what has become a worldwide organisation has nothing to do with waiting patiently in a restaurant for your meal to arrive but all to do with the quality and taste of what you are eating.

It all started in Italy back in 1986 when a fast food outlet, McDonalds, opened by the famous Spanish Steps in Rome and an incensed journalist, Carlo Petrini, tongue in cheek, suggested a rival slow food movement. Ludlow, just across the county border and a town with a big food reputation, is soon to become the headquarters of the British arm of the Slow Food movement, today boasting 83,000 members in 107 countries.

So it was that, on a balmy summer evening in the gardens of Brobury House on the banks of the Wye at Bredwardine, a group of folk, some producers, others running shops or restaurants and those who just enjoy the taste of good wholesome, locally produced food, met to launch Slow Food Herefordshire.

Everyone entered into the spirit of the occasion, remembering mothers' advice not to rush their food as platters of traditional local cuisine were passed round - spiced potted beef, salmon and watercress fingers, stuffed eggs, spinach and cheese roulade, tomato tarts.

All washed down with a Perry from Tom Stevens's old orchard at Marlbrook.

Significantly, perry is on Slow Food's list of food and drink products under threat of extinction and it is helping Herefordshire's 15 small perry producers, like Tom, to revive consumer interest in the drink which got left behind by the success of its cider cousin.

And not a hot dog in sight!

This will be a genteel campaign. No placard-waving protesters outside McDonalds in Hereford.

As cheese-maker Mark Hindle, of The Mouse Trap fame, remarked: "The idea of slow food is going to develop slowly."

Mark is vice-leader of the new group and fears that, as a nation, we have become enslaved by the fast food operators and with it a hectic lifestyle, with no time to savour the good things of life, especially the taste of locally grown, well cooked food.

The mantra of its members is that the food we eat should taste good, be produced in a clean way so as not to harm the environment or animal welfare and its producers should be paid fairly.

What better place to start than Herefordshire, probably the last bastion of a truly rural county, with its rich vein of locally produced food and drink.

Herefordshire Council saw the commercial kudos to be gained if the county were to gain Slow Food accreditation and has earmarked £150,000 to back a food campaign in Herefordshire for two years.

Two of its most experienced tourism and food professionals, Kate Tudge - herself the wife of a farmer specialising in rare breed pork sausages - and Jenny Beard, have been given the task of leading the county to food glory.

The humble snail - a gastronomic delight to the French - is the logo of the emerging worldwide Slow Food cause but let us not forget that one of Herefordshire's multitude of small food producers is a snail farm at Credenhill, or that it is the home of the best beef cattle, renowned for its cider and perry, Wye salmon, Wye Valley Brewery and - with or without those pesky plastic tunnels - the biggest strawberry grower. Herefordshire is a veritable food basket.

All this and much more will be showcased at the Slow Food Herefordshire's first Flavours of Herefordshire food festival at Hereford Racecourse, on October 21 and 22; a celebration of real food and drink from the fields of Herefordshire.

Yes, it's time we had someone to shout from the rooftops that food from Herefordshire is best - but the true test of success will only come when McDonalds start laying off staff - a sign that folk are returning to some real old-fashioned grandma's home cooking.

For more information about Slow Food Herefordshire contact Kate Tudge 01432 260639 or visit www.slowfoodherefordshire.org.uk

Liz Lloyd, left, Mark Hindle and Janine Martin take part in a slow strawberry-eating contest at the launch of Slow Food Herefordshire.

Jenny Beard (right), Slow Food Herefordshire Convivium leader with Kate Tudge, Herefordshire Council's tourism marketing officer, toast the launch of the Slow Food campaign.

Pru Cartwright, (right) who hosted the garden party at her Brobury House home, discusses local food with county cheese maker, Mark Hindle and his wife, Karen.