Established and cultivated as a luxury vegetable even in Roman times, gardeners have long prided themselves on growing large fine sticks of asparagus.

The Romans presented these velvety, purple-headed spears at their feast tables and it is hardly surprising that this vegetable has a reputation for being the food of lovers.

Asparagus grows from a "crown", a mass of finger-like shoots, planted in a bed of carefully prepared soil. The crop cannot be cut for the first two years.

In the third year, the early flush of asparagus buds begins in warm wet conditions of the late spring. The season is short, about eight weeks for a good year. Once the early summer sticks have been cut, the grower must let the subsequent spears run to flower blooming into delicate green fern.

This fern is essential for the plant to feed itself and prepare the crown for the next season.

If you are to experience the best from asparagus, you must seek out a grower and buy directly from them. It is really worth finding your local farmers' market or farm shop and making a special visit during the asparagus season.

Tradition says that asparagus should be graded into 'Jumbo', 'Choice' and 'Sprue', terms for thick, medium and thin spears.

To prepare a bundle of spears first snap off the tough bottom part (which you can reserve for souping). Then stand them upright in a pan of water, thereby boiling the bottom end of the spear and gently steaming the head.

Alternatively, cooking in boiling water for a few minutes in a wide, shallow frying pan achieves good results. Served with some melted butter and a scrunch of freshly milled black pepper.

"You can't beat the flavour of traditionally-grown asparagus," said Henry Wormington, grower and member of the Worcestershire Farmers' Market Group.

"Our customers have waited patiently this year for a late start, but now it's here, we'll be cutting every day for at least the next six weeks."

Market dates

l Saturday, May 7, 9am-2pm Victoria Square, Droitwich.

l Friday, May 13, 9am-4pm Kidderminster High Street

l Saturday, May 14, 9am-5pm Bromsgrove High Street

l Saturday, May 21, 9am- 2pm Abbey Road, Malvern

l Sunday, May 28, 10am-2.30pm Dog Lane Car Park, Bewdley.

l Saturday, May 28, 9am-1pm Post Office Car Park, Tenbury Wells.

l Sunday, May 29, 10.30am-4pm Webbs of Wychbold.

l Monday, May 30, 10am-3pm Broad Street, Pershore and Post Office Car Park, Tenbury Wells.