LIKE the window display of a fine Belgian chocolatier, Lasse Hallstrom's new film is a visual delight.

But like the Easter eggs lining the supermarket shelves, the glittering outer packaging and chocolate shell are about the sum of its parts.

Don't go looking for any deep messages or complex ideas. Intolerance in its many forms is bad and we should all try and get along together is about as meaningful as it gets.

Juliette Binoche plays the mysterious Vianne Rocher who is blown in by the north wind one day at the start of Lent to horror of horrors open a chocolate shop.

She and her daughter Anouk are viewed with suspicion and distrust by the devout little town, particularly its Mayor (played by Alfred Molina), who starts a hate campaign to drive her and her delicious cocao out.

It doesn't help when a group of river travellers, led by Roux, an 'Irish' Johnny Depp to be fair, he has worked hard to try and keep away from a Hollywood cod-Oirish accent turn up. Vianne welcomes them with open arms, particularly Roux. But then what girl wouldn't!

Of course, bigotry must eventually by banished and chocolate wins the day.

The strength of Chocolat lies not in its story, but in its fairytale-like, whimsical, warm-hearted filming, and its cast.

Binoche, Depp and Judi Dench may be the big stars, and Depp is woefully under-used, but this is really an ensemble piece with some beautifully-pitched performances all round.

So when the Oscars come calling, spare a thought for Molina's understated turn as the Comte-Mayor, desperately trying to keep control of his village after failing to keep control of his errant wife, or a battered woman (Lena Olin) finding salvation through the making of exquisite chocolates.

There's comedy too - the doe-eyed priest (Hugh O'Conor) caught hip swivelling to Elvis, the bullying husband being dragged to confession, and the burgeoning late-in-life love between dog owner John Ward and career widow Leslie Caron.

At the end of the day, there's nothing like a bar of chocolate now, is there?

Catherine Jones