MICHAELMAS is coming and, while the goose is not very fat, it is definitely good enough to eat.

That's the verdict of Judy Goodman, Great Witley goose producer and chairman of the British Goose Producers Association.

Goose is traditionally eaten during the Christian festival of Michaelmas, on September 29, which also marks the start of the goose season.

Mrs Goodman is one of just a handful of producers offering goose for this celebration of St Michael the Archangel and she expects to sell about 100 to people who want to observe the age-old custom.

The feast of St Michael, leader of the archangels and associated with the eternal fight between good and evil, began in the 4th Century and became very popular during the Middle Ages.

The association with geese is thought to be because Queen Elizabeth I received news of the Spanish Armada's defeat on that day and goose was eaten at a celebratory meal. There is also a theory that tenants used to give their landlord a goose at Michaelmas when paying the quarterly rent, as a sop to keep him sweet so he would let them keep the lease.

Mrs Goodman said: "It is a traditional time to eat goose. It is the start of the goose season, which goes on to Christmas.

"A lot of producers can't be bothered to do a few geese for Michaelmas but I am a great traditionalist. I shall be eating it on Michaelmas Day."

Mrs Goodman, who has been producing hand reared free-range geese for more than 20 years at Walsgrove Farm, said the Michaelmas goose tasted different from the Christmas goose.

"The Michaelmas goose has a flavour of its own. It is a younger bird and it does not have as much fat because it hasn't been through the cold weather. It is succulent and juicy with a lighter colour- ed meat and a lighter flavour."

The parishes of Elmley Castle, Bricklehampton, Little and Great Comberton will be joining to celebrate the annual feast of St Michael at St Michael and All Angels Church, Bricklehampton, on Sunday October 1.

The Rev Terry Henderson said he won't be eating goose but the 10am service would "bring out something of the meaning of that particular celebration".

"More than ever, we are aware of forces outside of ourselves affecting us. It is this global nature which makes people feel vulnerable. But there is also a sense that there are spiritual forces outside ourselves for good," he said.